Getting Started
Resolving Cranky Starting Problems
Story and photos by Wayne Scraba

When it comes to turning over, it always seems that starters in racecars dislike two things: Compression and heat. To make matters worse, whenever the thermometer rises, you can personally be boiling over. And the last thing you need is a racecar that won't start. Sound like a familiar situation? If it is, then you need to check out the following. It's a short look at racecar starting systems. And it's jammed with cures for hot starting headaches. Take a look. You won't be sorry.

Aftermarket Mini-starters

Why is it that starters give up at the worst possible moment -- such as when you're in the staging lanes and you've been called forward to enter the water box? And why is that an 800+ cubic inch Mountain-Motored combination (complete with a 15+:1 compression ratio) has no problem turning over, but your 9:1 compression ratio 350-inch small block fails to spin at even the slightest hint of heat soak?

Those are tough questions, and they've been addressed in the past with a plethora of quick fixes. But the real answer could be the starter that's bolted to the side of the block. Decades ago, racers discovered the gear reduction starter -- a design which was initially popularized by Chrysler. The trouble with the Mopar system is weight. This was (and still is) a very hefty piece -- try bench-pressing one a few times and you'll exactly know what I'm talking about. And to add to the troubles with the Chrysler-configuration starter is the inherent complexity of the unit. Sure it will start the engine easily, but the extra mass is on the wrong end of the racecar. Then racers and manufacturers noticed something: Many Japanese vehicles are also fitted with gear reduction starters. Most of these cars are powered by in-line four cylinder engines. It's been said that the firing order arrangement of these in-line engines can actually create more difficult starting problems than those associated with V8 power plants. Just as important, these "off shore" starters are small and light.

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What the racers needed was a lightweight, simple gear reduction starter that combined the best of the vintage Mopar designs and the later Japanese configurations. Given this situation, several aftermarket companies came up with a new starter design (like the McLeod "Mini Hy-Tork" starter shown in the accompanying photos). This starter design relies upon a gear reduction format: With a gear reduction of approximately 3-3/4:1, the motor can turn easily at a significantly higher RPM. Why is this important? Typically, a starter motor will draw higher electrical energy loads at low turning speeds. The gear reduction format solves that problem. Loads are decreased, windings are not as likely to become overheated and far less current is demanded from the battery. In the end, a starter such as the McLeod only requires 250 amps of current to function (that could be as much as half of the draw found with a conventional starter under this condition). This leaves a considerable reserve for the ignition system to supply spark to the turning powerplant.

But just as important, these race car starters also deliver a whopping 50% more torque to the flywheel (or flex plate) than a conventional original equipment starter. Internally, some of the mini-starters on the market include full ball bearing construction. This small starter configuration not only allows for long service life, it is also less susceptible to heat (or even cold) problems.

When the engine displacement exceeds 500 cubic inches, and when compression ratios increase, it may be necessary to use a larger mini-starter (which seems like a contradiction, but it isn't). By using a motor with larger field windings, a stronger armature and bigger brushes, torque increases over a conventional mini-starter can multiply by an extra 40%. In turns of hard numbers, a conventional mini-starter produces roughly 1.6 HP. In contrast, some aftermarket mini starters produces 2.4 HP. The only sacrifice when switching to the higher capacity mini-starter is a minimal increase in length.

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In terms of overall size, you can easily see that a typical mini-starter is considerably smaller than something like a heavy duty Delco starter. This small size allows for added exhaust clearance, oil pan clearance and in some cases, ground clearance. Just as important, the latest drag race starters are approximately 10 pounds lighter than an aluminum nose Delco. Compared to an iron-nose Delco or a Chrysler gear reduction starter, the weight savings are even more considerable.

What about fit? If you look closely, you'll see that a starter such the one shown in the photos comes complete with a pair of mounting holes. By mounting the starter inward or outward, it can fit small and large diameter Chevy flywheels or flex plates. Chevy engines aren't the only ones which can benefit from this form of starter. The racing aftermarket has similar configurations available for most built-in-Detroit V8's. Adjustment for correct pinion mesh is also taken into consideration. Included with the starter are shims to move the pinion down and another set of shims to move the pinion out. Mounting bolts are also included with the starter package.

How difficult is the wiring? If you have a look at the solenoid, you'll see two threaded (8mm) studs and one male spade (push on) terminal. The (+) battery cable attaches to the top stud and the starter switch wire goes to the spade terminal. In some applications, an ignition resistor bypass is used. In this case, the wiring is the same, but a second wire from the distributor goes to the starter. Connect the distributor wire to the lower 8mm stud (closer to the starter motor body). A 10 amp, 12 volt diode will have to be spliced into this wire so that feedback voltage does not reach the starter. Although the diode isn't supplied with the McLeod starter, they advise that any 10 amp, 12 volt diode will work.

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In the end, you'll find that the newer miniature starters aren't frazzled by large displacement, high compression, heat or cold. They're light, small and just as important, consistent. In racing, that could be the most important asset.

Backyard starting system diagnosis is pretty simple. Very few special tools are required, and for the most part, diagnosis can be handled in less than an hour. What follows is old news to many racers but if you're stuck and can't trace a balky starting system, you might try the following:

Before you even consider a starter problem, you have to test the battery. A battery that's a dead player (or weak) can not only create starting troubles, it can make testing next to impossible. Once the battery is eliminated as the culprit, try this old mechanic trick (it only works if your car has operational head lamps): Turn the headlights on and try starting the engine. If the lights go out when the starter is switched "on" and the starter doesn't spin, look for a poor connection between the battery and the starter motor. The number one cause of grief is a corroded battery terminal. The next biggest problem spot is a bad ground -- especially where the ground strap attaches to either the car chassis (body) or the engine. In many cases, the problem is actually paint between the ground strap and the ground.

If the lights dim when the starter is turned "on", and the starter turns slowly or the cranking action is sluggish, then the starter is experiencing a very heavy load. The number one reason for this in race car engines is too much initial ignition advance. If the engine has too much initial advance (or if it has mechanical advance weights and they're stuck) to start correctly, it tries to run backwards. The first thing to check is the mechanical advance. If it's stuck, free it. If the engine has too much initial dialed into it, reduce it. What if you need a bunch of initial advance to make your combination work (i.e. a high compression race car with an automatic transmission)? Try separating the ignition and starting circuits. In other words, set up the wiring so that one switch (such as the key) turns the starter motor "on" while another turns the ignition "on". This way, you can get the engine turning quickly with the starter and then flick on the ignition. It works.

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If your race car has headlights, and they remain bright, but the starter does nothing, then there's an open circuit somewhere in the starting system. The first thing to do is to hook up a booster cable from the battery + post directly to the terminal on the starter. If the starter still doesn't spin over, then it needs work. Another component to check is the neutral safety switch. If you by-pass the switch, and the starter works, you've found the problem.

If the solenoid (or relay) makes clicking sounds when you flick on the switch, but it starts with a direct shot of battery power (you can by-pass the solenoid by inserting a large screwdriver between the large battery cable post and one of the small switch terminals on the starter) it may be time to tear it down for a rebuild. Then again it doesn't necessarily mean that the solenoid is healthy. Quite often, the contacts inside a solenoid can be burned. This makes it impossible for the solenoid to switch on the heavy current to the starter. The most effective fix is to simply replace the solenoid.

If the starter works periodically, but with obvious grinding noises, remove it and carefully inspect the armature shaft where it engages the starter drive. Believe it or not, this problem is very perplexing since the starter will work fine (even off the bench) for a number of "starts", but then it will refuse to function. You might be astonished to find a fractured armature shaft (this is an extremely frustrating problem that plagued a low mileage truck I once owned). Usually, the cause is poor engagement with the ring gear.